Mori Onodera
: Omakase
by Courtney Davies
You just might pass Mori’s restaurant if you’re not careful. The nondescript but attractive building, recognizable by a slanted roof and five asymmetrical windows, is nestled below a Chevrolet truck billboard, and next to a larger building. There is no name on the restaurant, just a sign with the outline of a black fish. The inside is equally simple. White walls, blonde wood, and a few carefully selected pieces from local artists hang on the walls. There are very few tables inside the small restaurant, and the sushi bar seats eight. Behind the bar you will find Mori grating horseradish on sharkskin, expertly cutting the freshest fish, and using rice he polished that morning for the day. The restaurant is intentionally simple with good reason. You don’t go to Mori’s for anything but the food. The sushi restaurant is not for those with a timid western palate looking to stuff themselves on obnoxiously large rolls dipped in extra wasabi and soy. Each dish is perfectly prepared by Mori and his chefs with no extra ingredients necessary.
In 2007 when the world renowned Michelin Guide released their first ever Los Angeles edition, Mori’s earned a star, a great honor for a casual restaurant. “When I got the Michelin star I was very very happy. Also very proud of all my staff. All my staff has been here a very long time.”
Mori chose his life vocation of sushi chef at the age of six. “My grandmother took me to a sushi bar. I ate sushi, wow, first impression. This is real food.” Mori had to wait until he was 18, however, before he could start training in Tokyo. He learned not only how to make traditional Japanese sushi, but a lot about the restaurant business as well. Mori asserts that the most important lesson he learned was, “cooking is love.”
Mori left Japan for the land of the California roll because he wanted a challenge, and the ability to break free from the strict customs and traditions of Japanese cooking. “I left Japan to come find the American dream. Back in the 80’s there were so many sushi restaurants in Japan, but they were just the counter.” Mori saw a TV show of a United States sushi restaurant, and decided it was a concept he wanted to try. When Mori left Japan he didn’t say goodbye to his family. He just left a postcard for his dad that said, “I have decided I am going to the Untied States, adios.” Despite his desire to leave the strict customs of Japan, Mori’s sushi style is very traditional. His sushi is simple; the best fish and the best rice. He says the strangest food he has ever tried isn’t sea urchin (Uni) or barracuda, items on his menu, but a California roll with sautéed mushrooms on top.
Mori doesn’t have any “big plans” for the future. There won’t be a chain of 30 Mori’s restaurants popping up anytime soon, and he isn’t coming out with a TV show, or cookbook. “My dream, I don’t have a big dream. I always want to be myself and be happy. It makes me the most happy when people enjoy my food.”
My favorite video feature! I need to go and check this place out!
Vania Kong about 1 year ago